Beaujolais
by Brenda Francis
Most of us know Beaujolais as the young, grapey wine called Nouveau, a light bodied red that should be drunk as soon as it is released to the market. Beaujolais Nouveau goes from vine to glass in a mere few weeks and is a tradition on many Thanksgiving tables. Unfortunately, this simple, sometimes barely drinkable wine is the only experience some of us have with Beaujolais.
     Beaujolais is much more than what this ritual entails. While Beaujolais Nouveau accounts for half of all of Burgundy's total production, the Cru producers in Beaujolais offer hand crafted wines of superior quality and value. The ten Cru producers are located around the following villages and are aptly named the same: Brouilly, Chenas, Chiroubles, Cote de Brouilly, Fleurie, Julienas, Morgon, Moulin-a-Vent, Regnie, and Saint-Amour.
     Although Beaujolais is considered a region in Burgundy, it is outside of the geographic area of Burgundy, a little to the southwest. The only grape grown in Beaujolais is the red variety called gamay. Most of France's grapes like cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, merlot, syrah, and sauvignon blanc have found homes in all the other growing areas of the world. Gamay does not transplant well and is only grown in the Beaujolais region of France.
     Gamay produces fruity wines with flavors of red raspberries, cherries, milk chocolate, and sundried tomatoes. Beaujolais goes through a unique fermentation process called carbonic maceration, a method where the berries are permitted to ferment within their skins. Because of its low tannins and ample acidity, Beaujolais pairs well with many foods and can be a crowd pleaser when some are having chicken and some are having beef.
     Many wines from Beaujolais are produced by negociants. A negotiant usually does not own vineyards, but rather buys grapes from local producers, vinifies them, and then bottles the wine under their own label. Beaujolais negociants include Georges Duboeuf, Joseph Drouhin, Louis Jadot, Mommessin and Barton & Guestier (B&G).
     Surveying Beaujolais can be a delightful assignment. Quality offerings can be well under $20 a bottle. Finding a Beaujolais from the designation Village, Supérieur, or one of the ten Crus may require a trip a well stocked wine store. Beaujolais has had several great vintages lately and is ripe for exploration.