Pinot Noir
by Brenda Francis

Pinot noir is oh-so-fussy. It prefers a 9-5 work day. Pinot noir is particular about the soil it is grown in and it does not like being transplanted to a new growing area. It likes cool nights and warm, not hot, days. It likes a long growing season, or what we call a long 'hang time.' When it ripens too fast from too much sun it tastes like rubbing alcohol, lacks a mid-palate, or fails to have a finish. When the flavor of alcohol is present we say that the wine is 'hot.' This is why the cool growing regions of California, Burgundy, Oregon, Champagne, and New Zealand are best for pinot noir.

Pinot noir is genetically unstable. It will mutate into another grape if its environment is not to its liking. A handful of these mutated versions of pinot noir have been cultivated as their own varietals. Pinot blanc, pinot gris (or as it is know in Italy, pinot grigio), and pinot meunier are examples of pinot noir mutants that have made a name for themselves. Usually, pinot mutants are not wine worthy and cause despair when they develop on the vines.

Its thin skin creates problems at crush. The utmost care must be used when handling pinot noir. Unwelcome amounts of tannin will be added to the wine if the skins break during pressing. Although the words crush and pressing imply great pressure and skin breakage, ideally the process does not break the skins. But, this is a special feat when dealing with the thin skinned pinot noir. Growers must be very cautious when using automated equipment to harvest and process this fragile grape. If a grower forgoes automation, the cost for human handling increases the cost of the wine, but this extra effort shows with every sip.

When this high maintenance grape is pampered its flavors are sumptuous. Pinot noir should be perfume-like on the nose. That perfume should carry over to the palate, harmonizing with sultry tannins, and a notable finish. A good one will have bright notes of raspberry, strawberry, plums, or ripe cherries with a balanced mouth-watering acidity. Smoke, licorice, flowers, fresh herbs, clove, mint, cola nut, lavender, truffles, brambles, or spring rain are more flavors that a content pinot noir grape can produce.